Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf capitalized on Europe's interest in Indian cotton by founding his Manufacture des Toiles de Jouy in 1783 in Jouy-en-Josas, not far from Versailles. It quickly proved successful.
Today, toile is an iconic representation of French Savoir-Faire and an essential home decor piece. Over time it has endured, evolving with themes from nature to art history and mythology reemerging more regularly.
Origin
Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf was responsible for creating the timeless toile de jouy that is revered worldwide in the 18th century, when he established a factory to print cotton fabric near Paris and Versailles at Jouy-en-Josas near Jouy-en-Josas - just 10km outside Paris itself!
Cotton was a relatively recent innovation in France, which caused some anxiety among officials who feared its light, versatile cloth would threaten France's silk industry. Oberkampf found ways to produce toiles which combined both aesthetics and functionality into stylish yet practical textiles.
Toile patterns depict historical events while also representing folk themes and motifs. According to AD PRO, narrative French country patterns have been more conserved over the years due to teaching people about mythology, literature and major moments in history than floral motifs have.
Designers continue to embrace the toile look in wallpapers, draperies and furniture designs today. Additionally, mixing the toile pattern with stripes or checks has become popular as well.
Styles
Toiles are striking printed fabrics that, while their popularity may wax and wane over the years, never seem to die away entirely. You might recall seeing toile curtains or Great Aunt Mavis' upholstered chair featuring them at one time; many still hang in linen closets today among people in their 80s!
Toile de Jouy derives its name from Jouy, near Versailles where Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf established his textile printing factory; today, toile de jouy refers to any type of print with complex scenic themes on a white background produced using wood blocks with up to 20 colors in one scene printed by him - popular among royalty such as Marie Antoinette herself during her reign.
Toiles remain popular today for their bucolic scenes that have come to be associated with French culture. Artists such as New Yorker Richard Saja have recently been breaking from tradition by adding quirky touches such as spiked hair or clown noses onto figures in toile patterns.
Motifs
Historically, toile fabric--what people typically envision when they hear "toile fabric"--consists of white cotton printed with single-color bucolic scenes depicting parties in the countryside or rural idylls such as ladies with flowers or arbours; although some manufacturers produced toile patterns of various kinds.
Christopher-Philippe Oberkampf quickly saw plate printing become popular during the 1770s, opening his factory at Jouy-en-Josas near Paris and quickly becoming known by its name: toile de jouy (towile from Jouy). To produce such fabric patterns inspired by rococo paintings he hired some of the most gifted artists who helped design new patterns that soon became an instantaneous hit - toile de jouy.
Although toile patterns still retain a certain charm--Zoey Deschanel's charming Los Angeles pad from 500 Days of Summer was every millennial's ideal first apartment--their designs have evolved over time, becoming more floral-based or celestial-influenced designs that can now be found on clothing from Dior, Chloe and Oscar de la Renta collections this spring.
Mixing
Toile de Jouy is a classic French country fabric dating back to the late 1700's, first made popular through Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf and his successful textile printing factory in Jouy-en-Josas, France.
Oberkampf's designs typically featured light color backgrounds with intricate scenic motifs depicting bucolic scenes of farmers working the fields or couples strolling by on country walks. His toile prints could often be printed in two colors for use as curtains, upholstery and bedding fabrics.
Though toile fabric has come and gone over time, its revival in fashion and interior design has recently made a marked comeback. Today's designers are reinventing toile to meet modern tastes while adding exotic motifs into its patterns; for example, Tom Scheerer used tropical magenta toile from Quadrille Fabrics in his East Hampton bedroom for maximum impact - just be sure to mix in other textures as well!
